By michael
•
January 28, 2025
Roaming Leads to Beauty I roamed through a stunning morning down a beautiful road west of Salem, Oregon, winding past modern housing developments before giving way to the charm of history. Around the corner from the Spring Valley Community Center, which was originally a school for the farm children of Zena—still standing proudly since 1907—past a llama farm and a mile or so beyond the esteemed Lingua Franca Winery in the Eola-Amity AVA, lies Seven Springs Vineyard. Here, approximately 80 acres of rolling hills are composed of volcanic basalt, fertile Jory clay, and something intangible yet unmistakable: love for the terroir. Seven Springs Seven Springs was first established as wine country in the early 1980s by the MacDonald family and is now stewarded by Evening Land Vineyards, which is a sibling of Rajat Paar’s Domaine de la Cote in the Santa Rita Hills AVA near Lompoc, creating world-class Pinot Noir. There, the vineyards flourish in terroir blanketed in marine sedimentary soils, ancient diatomaceous shale beds, deeper layers of clay and coastal fogs. With biodynamic practices, Evening Land nurtures Pinot Noir, Gamay, and Chardonnay grapes on this ethereal property, cloistered from the hum and buzz of the outside world. The Harp and the Accord Seven Springs’ connection to the land mirrors the Eola-Amity Hills’ rich tapestry of history and natural phenomena. The hills around Seven Springs loop and dip, alternately shielding or welcoming the winds from the Oregon Coast Range. These breezes stream through the Van Duzer Corridor, one of Oregon’s newest AVA. The region of Eola draws its name from the Aeolian harp, a mystical instrument that sings harmonic tunes simply by being touched by the wind, its strings vibrating in invisible waves of sound. Amity, meanwhile, owes its name to an amicable resolution between two rival communities in the 1840s, resulting in the establishment of a shared school. The Kalapuya Tribe once cultivated this land, growing camas and wapato—plants with culinary and medicinal significance that echo the harmony of this terroir. Evening Land captures this sense of harmony, history, and natural music, producing wines that are quiet yet eloquent. These wines whisper aromas and flavors shaped by the intricate and evolving terroir of the Eola-Amity Hills AVA, tended by my host and head winemaker John Faulkner. The Meaning of Terroir-Driven Wine Evening Land proudly embraces the philosophy of “terroir-driven” wine. This commitment is no surprise, given that Rajat Parr is one of the world’s most esteemed winemakers. He applies his culinary finesse to the unique terroir of the main property, Domaine de la Côte in the Santa Rita Hills AVA. At Seven Springs, winemaker John Faulkner delves deeper into this concept. He explores the possibility that the vineyard’s 80 acres may harbor up to 100 variations of soil, each subtly influencing the character of the grapes. His pursuit of precision aligns with biodynamic principles, seeking to refine both farming and winemaking. Microclimate and Electromagnetic Geology Enter Pedro Parra, a.k.a. Dr. Terroir, a Chilean consultant revered for his groundbreaking work in geology-driven viticulture within Burgundy. While most focus on soil composition, Parra looks deeper—literally—to the rocks beneath, believing that geology is the key to understanding a wine’s texture and mouthfeel. Parra employs advanced techniques like electromagnetic scanners—tools more commonly used in mining—to map the soil’s electrical conductivity. This reveals the clay content, which often predicts wine’s fruit density and plushness. Additionally, he digs trenches across vineyards, inspecting the rock layers and evaluating their impact. Harder rocks, for instance, yield wines that are linear and austere, while decomposed rocks lead to rounder, more generous wines. Evening Land Flight At Seven Springs, John and his team are excavating nearly 100 trenches, unveiling the complex geological tapestry of sand, clay, iron, and volcanic rocks. These revelations promise an evolution in both vineyard care and winemaking artistry, the fruits of which may fully reveal themselves decades from now A Flight of Pinot Noir John graciously guided me through a flight of Evening Land’s Pinot Noirs: Seven Springs, La Source, and Summum. He likened their complexity to language: Seven Springs, straightforward in English; La Source, elevated in French; and Summum, the pinnacle, Latin—both elusive and profound. Seven Springs and La Source Seven Springs feels like an old friend: approachable, generous, and with an air of simplicity that belies its sophistication. Its aromas are earthy and vivid, with Oregon Waldoberry leading the way, interwoven with red plum and the soft crinkle of autumn leaves. On the palate, it bursts with bright acidity balanced against fine-grained tannins, finishing with a touch of spice reminiscent of star anise. La Source, by contrast, is a poetic sibling. Its elegance lies in its restraint, offering a nose of dried roses, ripe black cherries, and delicate hints of forest floor. The palate is more layered, with flavors unfolding in waves—bramble, Olallieberry tartness, and a soft yet persistent minerality. The structure is precise, with a polished texture that feels akin to lace. Together, the two wines are sultry and playful, exuding a sense of joy that feels especially resonant in winter. If these two wines were music, they would echo Lindsey Stirling: lush orchestrations, soaring melodies, intricate craftsmanship, bowing technique, and use of vibrato, some that inspire the awe of a motion picture soundtrack. The Summum Experience The 2022 Summum Pinot Noir, poured via Coravin on-site, felt enigmatic to me at first. The wine’s whispers were subdued but hinted at something extraordinary. That’s partly because of my naïveté and lack of experience. At home, I opened the bottle fully, allowing it to evolve overnight. By morning, the whispers became melodies, revealing a bouquet of farmers market raspberries, violets, autumn leaves, and Earl Grey bergamot. On the palate, it was symphonic, with bay leaves, dusty lavender, smoked sea salt, and freshly bloomed roses creating a meditative harmony. Aged for nine months in Ermitage barrique, which is a unique French Oak barrel, perhaps produced by a cooperage such as Tonnellerie https://tonnellerie-ermitage.com/en/group/ (that place is worthy of another story), known for its custom-crafted, French barrels with lighter toasting levels, often used to mature wines while highlighting their fruit character, which is exactly what Summun exudes for me, light and ethereal notes of vanilla and clove. I love when wines are incomparable but, for me, there’s an irresistible temptation to compare, so there’s a reference point in memory. For me, the Summun feels like Vosne-Romanee, perhaps Domaine Jean Grivot Vosne Romanee 1er cru "Les Beaux Monts, which is a tiny vineyard producing Pinot Noir with similar character but at a significant price premium. With Gratitude The older I get, the more I want to learn. I trust the 2022 Summun will also prosper with age. left Evening Land grateful for insights, more enlightened, my senses awakened to the intricate links between terroir, aroma, flavor, and music. I am excited to share the wines in a formal tasting with my clients who will be new to Evening Land. Enya’s lyrics from her song “Evening Falls” resonate with the wines of Evening Land—anchored in a sense of place yet transcending time and space “Even though I leave, Will I go on believing, that this time is real Am I lost in this feeling? Like a child passing through Never knowing the reason I am home, I know the way. I am home, feeling oh, so far away” But home, like the wines of Evening Land, is a place that exists both here and far away. For an unforgettable journey into the wines of Evening Land and other amazing wines for wine- tasting events in Lake Oswego and Portland, guided by sensory storytelling and a sommelier’s touch, contact Michael Perman at C’EST WHAT? Wine and Sensory. www.cestwhatwine.com michael@cestwhat.org For an unforgettable journey into the wines of Evening Land and other amazing wines for wine- tasting events
